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You're welcome! It isn't seen often at all - only when you want that super twisted stitch on the next row (without having to manipulate the stitch a bunch to get it twisted.) I should refilm the video with a better sample so that you can actually see what the stitch looks like!

You are so welcome! It is so much easier to work it from the wrong side!!

Mosaic can be worked in either flat or in the round! This video applies to working it flat, though. If you were to work it in the round, you'd read *all* chart rows from right to left, reading each chart line twice (so you work 2 rounds of each color before switching). When working in garter, but in the round, you'd knit the stitches worked in the first round, then need to purl the worked stitches in the second round. (All slipped sts will be slipped with the yarn in the back.)

Great idea! I think if you just join your new color for the bind off and use it as you bind off, it'll be the visible chain along the seam!

You’re welcome 😊

Wonderful!

Glad it was helpful!

Have fun!

Yes! It reduces the bulk quite a lot! Now, keep in mind, it seems to be a bit less firm/sturdy of a seam, so if you need structure, it might not fit the bill so well.

Also my question.

I think you could pass them both at the same time, sure! -- I tend to do them one at a time to avoid them getting twisted and not lying nice and flat how they should. But whatever works best for you is perfectly fine - doing them together would probably be faster!

@@HeatherStortathank you

You're so welcome!

Have fun! Socks are fun and mosaic knitting is fun too!

Wonderful!

Glad it was helpful! :-)

Yes, as long as you keep the desired dominant color under (or to the left) of the other color, and they don't reverse positions mid-row, then it doesn't matter how you hold your yarns! I hold both in my right hand, usually, but depending on the colorwork pattern I may resort to the drop method.

Glad to help!!

Isn't it nice? I really like it as a finished hem.

Yes!! There will be a slight jog at the beginning/end of the round, but you can definitely do it in the round!

No, I don't have one of that one yet, I have it my queue to film a bunch of the sock toe methods separately, I just haven't gotten them done yet!

You'll be joining your live stitches to the purl bumps on the WS at the proper row for the fold that you want, and then binding off as you go along (like a 3 needle bind off). It can be trickier to find the purl bumps to join to since you don't have that handy contrast yarn to spot them with - it's much easier to get off by a row here and there and not stay in the same row. You could try running a lifeline in the first row of the hem to try to help spot those. You could also cut your working yarn, leaving a long tail, and sew the live stitches down, by seaming to the purl bumps instead. Kind of like a graft, but to the body of the fabric on the WS instead of at the edge.

@@HeatherStorta thank you very much...great ideas

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, you can do the same thing toe-up with live stitches. It's a slightly different procedure -- but you'd do the same knitting rows - the same number of plain before and after the picot, and then you'll be working the live stitches to the purl bumps in the proper row for the folded hem, then binding off as you go (so, very much like a 3 needle bind off). It can be trickier to find the purl bumps to join to since you don't have that handy contrast yarn to spot them with, however! You could also cut your working yarn (leaving a long tail) and sew the live stitches down, by seaming to the purl bumps, instead as well. Kind of like a graft, but to the body of the fabric on the WS instead of at the edge.

Ah, I didn't know that name for it -- that's a clever use of it!

You're welcome!

Yes, you can do it top down! It can be harder to spot the stitches to join to, but you'd join your live stitches to the purl bumps in the fold, and then bind off as you go.

Happy to help!

Oh, that's fun! It's so interesting seeing how knitters hold and tension their yarn, because everyone has a different method!

You are so welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome!!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome!

You kind of still need an idea of foot circumference. Or you could guess, based on the foot size charts here. Then you could figure out your stitch count based on your gauge, and make a sock long enough for the longest foot length plus desired leg/cuff height, plus maybe 2 extra inches to account for the sock stretching over the heel. www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/foot-size-charts

I think that likely depends on your foot anatomy and what you consider comfortable -- for folks that don't like the feel of seams or ridges, then one of the ones that has minimal ridges on the inside from decrease lines might be more comfortable (so, for example, one of the rounded versions with staggered decreases.) If you have a wide and flat toe box, then a wedge shape works well, but if you have a much longer big toe then that shape may not be as comfortable (an "anatomical" toe shape would be better in that case.) Every foot is different!

It can tend to be, yes - since there are slipped stitches involved, and those can bring the stitch gauge tighter. It depends on the knitter, though!

I can add that to my video queue, yes! -- in the meantime, it would be very similar to increasing and decreasing in trinity stitch -- if you're a member of TKGA, I have an article on Trinity stitch in the Summer 2024 issue of Cast On magazine-- and I go in depth on increasing and decreasing in that stitch pattern!

@@HeatherStorta thank you very much! I will join so that I can read your article. I’d really like to up my knitting game!

Oh, there is so much great information in Cast On and TKGA as a whole, you will love it!

Yes, I think they would be helpful! You could at least see how it fits your heel and get a better idea if it will work for you.

You're welcome! Don't dread it -- it isn't too complicated once you understand what's happening! Biggest issue I have when working it is remembering that those stitches aren't "real" stitches and need to be *not* worked in the stitch pattern accidentally, lol.

You are so welcome!

From the wrap and turn short rows? They'd be less loose in a more appropriate gauge (I was working loosely for the video) -- but you could also not pick up the wraps and that would help eliminate strands, or use a different short row method all together. It's not a toe for everyone, but it's nice to have options!

I'm glad you liked it! Judy's Magic instead of (or as the) provisional is a great option with this toe, since you have those live stitches ready to go for when you work in the round! (I, too, like the graft at the top of the toe with the cuff-down variation. And if you use a different color yarn for the graft like in the thumbnail, then you have an easy spot to see to undo the toe if it gets holes!)

@@HeatherStorta oh I like the idea of different yarn for grafting. Thanks again

You're welcome!

Yes, it will usually tell you how many stitches. Typically it's an odd number of stitches --so it'd be 3, 5, or 7 etc. But not always.

Yes, it can!

No, not really. Since you have to work rounds all the way around the circumference in between each wedge, that's not possible with the way the afterthought heel works. You *could* do a "plain" short row heel though, by working on only half the live stitches and then grafting the heel closed to the other half when done. But any heel method that adds in full rounds in between working back and forth won't work with an afterthought heel.

@@HeatherStorta thanks! I love afterthought heels and I am looking for different heel options just for fun.

Happy to help! You can do it!

My pleasure